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More Gain &
Less Pain
In
Part I
of this series we looked at ten ways to decrease the pain, and increase the pleasure of
our Practice Sessions. How
These Tips Work
The
objective of course, is to make the home-to-casino transition easier, and to make your
actual in-casino sessions yield more profit. Amongst
other things, we can use our practice-sessions to:
Ø
Fine-tune
our grip
Ø
Re-target
our aim
Ø
Rework
our release point
Ø
Modify
our throwing force
Ø
Adjust
our backspin
Ø
Alter
our trajectory
Ø
Build
a consistent toss
Ø
Develop
muscle-memory The
more that we refine our talents in practice-sessions; the more our skills are likely to
shine through once we get into the casino. I
want to tell you about THE MOST OVERLOOKED ASPECT of Precision-Shooting: Tip
#11 Dominant Eye
Here
is a useful tip if your current dice-targeting skills are less than perfect. This is one of several practice-tips that I have
never seen mentioned anywhere else.
Ø
Choose
any spot on a wall that is about eight-feet away from you.
Ø
Extend
your arm fully and hold up your thumb so that it covers the chosen spot.
Ø
Now
close your right-eye. Did the target seem to
shift?
Ø
Open
your right eye, and now close your left-eye. Did
the target seem to shift this time?
Ø
While
your arm remains aimed at the target, does one eye seem to move your thumb
off-target?
Ø
Conversely,
does only one eye keep the thumb on the same spot as when both of your eyes are fully
open? If so, then one of your eyes is more
dominant than the other.
Ø
If
you try the close-one-eye-and-open-the-other exercise, and the target moves
the same distance (or remained static) to the left and to the right as you alternated
between closed eyes; then you are neutrally-sighted and neither eye is more
dominant than the other. That is a good
thing, and you can skip over to the next tip. If
one of your eyes is dominant, it may lead to targeting errors. In normal day-to-day
activities, this disparity between your eyes doesnt make any difference. However,
where fine-motor control, distance-reckoning, depth-perception and hand-eye
coordination is required, it definitely becomes a factor. When targeting of an object comes into
play, then it becomes critical. Let
me make matters a little worse for you before I make them better. Your
dominant-eye becomes MORE DOMINANT as your stress level rises. In our basest fight-or-flight instincts for
survival, this can be a good thing if you are battling a woolly mammoth to the death. However,
in the even wilder casino-world where our bankrolls survival is on the line, and where
fine-motor control is required, the stress level of increased endorphins
sometimes causes our targeting accuracy to be LESS ACCURATE. Some
people find that as the amount of money on the layout increases, so does their
stress-level. What happens is that as your
stress level rises, your dominant eye becomes more dominant. Under those circumstances, if you
sighted your target with both eyes, then there is a good chance that your
accuracy and precision will not be on-the-mark. Depending
on where you are standing at the table in relation to the distance and angle of the
target, your dominant eye can either assist your accuracy or hinder your aim. To
overcome this obstacle, we first determine if one of your eyes is dominant; then when you
are at your Practice Rig:
Ø
Look
at your chosen touchdown-target with both eyes.
Ø
Set
and grip the dice as you normally would.
Ø
Quickly
look at the target again.
Ø
Briefly
close your subordinate eye, and keep your dominant eye on the target.
Ø
Use
your dominant eye the same way you would if you were using a scope on a hunting-rifle.
Ø
Now,
with both eyes open, throw the dice.
Ø
Determine
how closely you came the target.
Ø
Use
Tip #9 - Target-Practice from
Part I
to
orient your hand-eye coordination from ever-increasing distances. This guarantees near-100% accuracy despite your
current vision limitations.
Ø
Continue
repeating this process until your aiming-skills improve to the point of high-reliability. By
understanding which eye is dominant, you should be able to work around it and improve your
targeting skill-set. With
that in mind, well
be looking at this Dominant Eye subject in much greater detail in a dedicated article in
the future. Tip
#12 Shooting to a Target - Part Deux This
is a great supplementary idea that coincides with the tip of the same name in
Part I. Ill give Heavy credit for this one. While
it might first appear to be off-the-wall, its actually a good piece of advice that
has a couple of practical purposes.
Ø
Practice
throwing the dice into a shallow pan of flour to see if the dice are landing flat. Its a bit like checking the sand in the
long-jump pit to determine where you first landed, how deep you sunk, whether there was
more weight on one foot over the other, and where your body tumbled after its initial
touchdown. When you see how the dice
initially land, and what they do after they first hit; then you can make quick corrections
to your toss-mechanics.
Ø
Moreover,
you can also mark a small spot in the pan of flour, and from your normal throwing
distance, see how close and how often you can hit the chosen spot. This exercise can tell you a lot about your
current skills or lack thereof.
Ø
If
flour seems a little messy, you could use fine-grain kitty litter or any other non-dusty
material. However, its best to use
FRESH kitty litter, otherwise the dice may hit some unseen obstacles that are buried under
the surface. Tip
#14 -
Quality
vs Quantity
The
quantity of practice throws that we make in each session strongly comes
into play; when we are focusing on developing a reliable and consistent throw; when we are
determining our Signature Numbers; and when we are trying to build muscle-memory. The
quality of our practice throws comes into play during ALL OF THOSE
ACTIVITIES. Throwing
the cubes without resolved focus and concentration just to increase the number of tosses
is pretty pointless. Dont
waste your time if you arent going to throw with the same level of concentration,
dedication and focus that you use in the casino. If
your at-home throw is haphazard for whatever reasons (no stress, no money on the line, not
in the mood, etc.) then you might as well not practice at all. If
you want repeatably profitable performance in the casino, then your Practice Toss has to
closely match the QUALITY of your in-casino toss.
Tip
#15 - Tracking Your Success Ive
written about a couple of Craps Roll-Calculation software programs that are specifically
designed for Precision-Shooters. Ø Pablos Toss Tracker ( click here ) Ø Porkchops Craps Tracker C-RAT ( click here for more info ) Both
of these programs are very effective
in helping a Precision-Shooter do some quick and easy reckoning of how their own throwing
is doing. Toss Tracker has an
on-line demo and pre-loaded roll statistics, and Craps
Tracker C-RAT lets you specify different dice sets and tracks individual
dice-outcomes. You can also hook it up to
voice-recognition software. Why
use a Roll-Calculation Program? ~They
make easy work of figuring out EXACTLY where your strengths lay as far as your current
Signature Numbers are concerned. ~They
calculate your SRR and on-axis throwing percentages on a forward-rolling basis. ~They
help you tailor betting strategies that focus on your current
Precision-Shooting strengths, and help you to avoid unprofitable betting approaches. Tip #16
Practice-to-Play Ratio
This is one of the
most under-rated ideas that I know of, yet it provides the most bang-for-the-buck. If you are willing to invest your time, this tip
will pay steady dividends. I cant
over-emphasize the importance of being willing to put in the time on the practice layout. The best athletes
do it in their chosen games, and if you want your game to be on par with the pros, then
you have to put in the time and effort to achieve it.
I strongly recommend 10-hours of practice for every 1-hour of actual casino
play. How long should you
maintain the 10-to-1 practice-to-play ratio? I would recommend
that you maintain that regimen to the point where your in-casino sessions are CONSISTENTLY
PROFITABLE. Once you reach that level, you
may choose to slightly scale it back.
Thereafter, if your casino-performance continues to improve, and your profitability
continues to increase; then you may choose to carefully decrease your practice hours. While a 10-to-1
ratio of practice hours to in-casino hours may seem excessive, it makes excellent economic
sense. The better you get in your at-home
sessions, the easier the transition to profitable in-casino play will be. The more money that
you save by improving your game at home, the better positioned you will be to take
advantage of it once you go to the casino. When
your money is in action on the real tables; that is when all of the hours that you
invested on the Practice Rig will begin to pay dividends.
Put another way: If you want the rainbow
you have
to put up with the rain. Tip #17
New Dice If
there is one culprit that will prevent you from transferring your at-home brilliance into
real-casino consistency, it is the problem of practicing with OLD DICE. In
most cases, the dice that you use in the casino are less than eight HOURS old. That means that all five dice in the dealers-bowl
have been in use for less than eight hours
not eight days, eight weeks or eight
months
less than EIGHT HOURS old. So let
me ask you this:
Ø
How
long have your practice dice been in action?
Ø
How
many times have they been dropped on the floor or impacted a hard object?
Ø
How
many minute chips, scratches, and nicks are on the surfaces?
Ø
How
rounded have the edges become?
Ø
How
many corners have tiny pieces missing from them?
Ø
How
long has the natural oil in your skin been interacting with the cellulose acetate in the
dice? If
youve read my New Dice, New Opportunity
article, you know that:
Ø
New
dice have sharp edges that bite and dig in.
Ø
New
dice are much more lively than dice that have been in use for even three or four hours. Just as tennis balls, golf balls and
baseball gradually change after they have been hit several dozen times, so do dice.
Ø
Even
after moderate use, dice have less bounce than brand-new ones. On tennis-balls, the
"nap" or fuzz wears down. On
dice, the polished and hardened surface also wears down.
The wear is especially prevalent on the edges and corners first.
Ø
Old
dice just dont roll like new dice. That
may go a fair distance in explaining why at-home practices sometimes yield far different
results than your real-world casino experiences.
Ø
Because
new
dice
are livelier, they tend to go farther. If you have dialed in a great sweet-spot
while using "old" dice, you may have to re-target the initial landing area some
inches further away. You will even experience
this in a casino when they bring in new dice during a shift change. Your sweet-spot can
turn SOUR after new dice enter the picture.
Ø
If we see such a dramatic difference between
8-hour old dice versus a set of brand-new, fresh-out-of-the-foil dice; imagine the
difference between new dice and ones that youve been practicing with for months on
end.
Ø
With normal random-roller use, it takes about
90 minutes of play before new dice are "seasoned" by normal use and by the
tempering effect of human-skin-oil. They then
maintain their neutral bias for another 4 to 6 hours depending on their
useage, after which true-randomness steeply declines. So,
let me ask you this: If
new dice do all of the things that I just mentioned; then how accurately do you think the
old set of dice that you are practicing with at home reflect real-world conditions? Well
take a much closer look at a pair of dice, along with another dozen or so more practicing
tips in Part III of this series.
In the meantime, Good
Luck & Good Skill at the Practice Table
and in Life. Sincerely, The
Mad Professor
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